Garden blog

Well, we are starting a second series for our blog. Pop Pop is starting an organic garden, and this blog will follow what is going on, and what we are getting in terms of vegetables later this summer.
First of all, Pop Pop has lots to learn. The second best teacher so far has been two books by Eliot Coleman, The New Organic Grower, and Four –Season Harvest. They are very detailed with lots of “how-to” information. However, the best source of learning has been Aaron Delong; he is a real farmer who works at the Rushton Farm in Willistown, PA. Rushton Farm is a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program sponsored by the Willistown Conservation Trust. Aaron has provided advice on how to get started and make the soil fertile.
Aaron suggested that our ground is way too wet. We have wetlands in the back of our property, and a little stream runs right by the garden, so no surprise there. The French and Chinese developed an intensive farming technique called “double digging.” Good news – high, fluffy, well-drained raised beds for planting. Bad news – really hard work! But once done, you never need to double dig again. In the photo, the left row is double dug – the right two were not. The left row is reserved for our tomato plants.
The other picture is our compost heaps – the left from last year will be used next year, while the right is in the process of building and will be used in two year’s time. This year, we “simulated” compost by a mix of peat moss, potting soil, and sand. Hopefully, the mix will help combat the soil’s wetness.
We’ll try to blog as something changes – so not every day, but hopefully, often enough to be interesting.

Recap

As a recap, here is a list of DeDe and Pop Pop’s highlights from the trip:

1. The people we met – there were so many people with multiple talents: a classical concert pianist, a classical concert singer, the man who first climbed and mapped Antarctica’s highest two mountain peaks – both all ice and rock over 16,000 ft., a young couple on a world tour – he a trader and she a product manager for Skittles, the National Geographic and Lindblad photography teams, the naturalists and scientists studying marine and wildlife on Antarctica, the Antarctic dive team, and people from all over the world: Australia, Bonaire, Britain, Canada,Switzerland, and all over the U.S.
2. The vastness and sparseness of Antarctica – ice, rocks, and lots of space. One time we thought an iceberg was two miles away. The captain hit it with a GPS – it was 12 miles away, and very big!
3. The king penguin colony in South Georgia – standing with 300,000 to 500,000 penguins is amazing – especially watching the personal interaction of the individual birds.
4. The rest of the area’s wildlife – birds, seals, and whales - and the geology, and the interaction of the two dynamics.
5. Albatross in both South Georgia and the Falklands – these birds are so awkward on land and so graceful soaring in the air – it is no wonder they can stay aloft for months at a time.
6. The Lindblad response to the earthquakes in Chile – they threw resources at a problem, and were there for all their travelers. We appreciate their commitment, expertise, teamwork, and diligence.
7. The links to the Shackelton rescue both in Antarctica and South Georgia – we got a minute taste of the Shackelton men’s experience by being there in the summer, and hiking 4 miles over a ridge 1,000 ft high (it was very steep, both up and down). That was certainly small potatoes compared to an 800 mile ride in a tiny boat in the dead of winter, almost without navigation, and a hike over 9,000 ft and 20 miles after near exhaustion. And the men who stayed on Antarctica over the winter under two wooden life boats had no picnic, either.
8. The photography lessons, the critiques, and the individual attention - having six photography experts, each with their own style and point of view, was a learning experience. We were at the bottom end of the photo food chain, with our little point and shoot cameras. But we learned that with good positioning and composition, and pretty good editing tools at our disposal, we were able to improve our picture taking significantly.
9. The concert in the “Bistro Bar” and the personal story and presentation of climbing Antarctica’s Mountain peaks –these were unexpected treats, from our fellow travelers.
10. And finally, but not trivially, learning to blog over time and space – DeDe and Pop Pop loved doing it, getting better as we went along, and knowing that others were able to share our experience in part.

Thank you to all who traveled with us and followed us on our blog.

Coming home

We were stranded in Ushuaia for two days, due to the Chilean earthquake and apparent Argentine intransigence. Special thanks to Bud and Kendra, trip leaders, and the entire Lindblad team for all their attention and efforts to get us home with minimal disruption - including flying a special charter from Miami to get us all back to the states. The earthquake had left all South American travel in shambles. For example, in Santiago there was a cruise ship where over 2,000 passengers were not allowed to
have anyone disembark, nor shore passengers to board, because there were no hotel rooms certified safe!

We, however, arrived home safe, sound and exhausted. We had as good a trip as could be expected considering a five hour leg, an hour layover on the plane, a two hour leg, a two hour layover off the plane, and finally a five hour leg to Miami (all with three bodies in three seats in steerage). But it was better than it sounds. Mike Nolan, one of the Lindblad photographers, sat with us, and he used to be a deejay, so we had a group sing-along with Mike, Jake (from Bonaire), and Juan (from Canberra) leading the way. The sing-alongs and the layovers really helped break up the tight space for the rest of the trip.

From there it got much better. We hustled in Miami, and our expected layover of ten hours was not only cut to an hour and a half, but we were upgraded to Philly, and arrived back in Philly by 11 am, and home before noon. After showers, Donna called friends and crashed around 790, while I went to our club, where the National American Paddle Tennis Association (APTA) finals were being held. It was unreal - "A game of which I am unfamiliar," as someone once said.

The Philly clan arrived and we had a great time with a Chinese dinner and watching the Oscar prelims, the Red Carpet. Pop Pop fell asleep twice prior to heading upstairs before the actual show started, and never heard a thing until workers arrived yesterday am, installing new wiring in our basement and finishing the work on our family room.

Just prior to our trip, and while we were gone, we had over fifty inches of snow - in PA, not Antarctica! We have pine boughs down everywhere, and mold (yuck)in our basement. We have things to do and miles to go before we sleep.

P.S., The pictures are our last day in the Falklands, a scene in Ushuaia, and a scene from our sing-along.

One more time ...

One of the best lines of the trip came, unfortunately, this am. Bud, our Expedition Leader, started, “I hope you are sitting down.” Fast forward, it is now 4pm, and the plane from Lima, Peru, has just left Lima for a six or seven hour flight to Ushuaia so, at best, we leave tomorrow. On the return trip, we will need to land in both Lima and La Paz, Bolivia, so there is a chance for continued unexpected events. It’s now getting old. Even after that flight, we need to get from Miami to Philly, and finally, to 790. Yoicks!

P.S.: Here's what a baby albatross looks like.

Ushuaia - fin du monde

We’ve returned from a long am walk in Ushuaia. Ushuaia bills itself as Fin du Monde, or End of the World, because it is the most southern city in the world. The city sits in a bowl of mountains surrounding it, except for an exit to the sea. It’s a pretty town (larger than we thought – 60,000 people) that is oriented to hiking, climbing, and outdoors in Patagonia. It is quite pleasant, sunny, and close to 70 degrees F today.
We’re keeping our fingers crossed for a flight early tomorrow am.

Ushuaia - again

Well, it is a beautiful day in Ushuaia – good news! We are still here – bad news. At this time, we expect to fly to Miami tomorrow am, but the plane is in Lima, Peru, awaiting Argentine paperwork. We don’t know if that means security or bribes that is gumming up the works.

We can’t wait to get home to hug everyone. Hopefully, we won’t be updating this message tomorrow am.

Albartoss and Rock Hoppers

Rock hoppers and albatross – we had a beautiful pm. There was a pleasant walk (about 20 min.) to cliffs overlooking the opposite shore of New Island. Our pictures don’t do justice to the heights, so here are close-ups of two birds.
BTW, we have had no adverse effects from the earthquake. But we also do not know if we can fly in or out of Santiago. Hopefully, we will hear more on that tomorrow.

Carcass Island

Can you imagine living 35 years on an island named Carcass running a sheep farm? We met the McGills (H&W) who have done just that. It was a pretty island, and hiking up the hills was peaceful and calm – but 35 years?! This pm we’ll see New Island, a home of nesting Black Browed Albatross and rock-hopper penguins.

Hydroponic gardening

Today we are in Stanley, the main town in the Falkland Islands. They are partly noted for their colorful roofs. Yesterday, both DeDe and Pop Pop had a massage. We were so relaxed we missed blogging (also, in part, because we were still at sea, and did not have much to report). This pm, we are going to a hydroponic (?) garden. We’ll be learning what that is.

Wow! We just got back from the Stanley Garden Centre. They have acres of support fields, and lots of smaller Quonset huts for starting seedlings. But the main growing area is a large series of Quonset huts covering 1/3 of an acre. In this structure they grow everything in fertilized water in a self-contained, recycled system, with no soil. There they grow peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, cukes, beans, etc. At the height of the summer, they harvest ½ ton of peppers, and over one ton of tomatoes per week. It is amazing how efficient agriculture can be.

At sea

Today and tomorrow we are at sea. The wind is howling outside, and we need to hold the ropes and handrails inside. We’ve had lectures/discussions today on the Falklands, whaling, videography, and later on another photography critique of our best shots, weather permitting. DeDe has been lying low today, fortunately reading a good book, not worse.

Albatross Alley

Today we visited our last stop on South Georgia, a bay called Elsehul. We’ve affectionately nick-named it Albatross Alley. As we blog, we’ve set sail for the Falkland Islands. At Elsehul, we saw, as you might expect, penguins, seals, and mostly, albatross. Some of these birds have a wing-span of 12 ft. These huge and graceful birds are especially spectacular when flying together in formation, looking like an air force squadron.

Macaroni

This pm we went to Hercules Bay, a small cove with lots of Macaroni Penguins. The swells were extreme, so we had to stay in the Zodiacs. Another highlight was seeing a pair of Sooty-Headed Albatrosses flying in tight formation. One of our favorite guides is Tom Ritchie, who, as you can see, is our National Geographic Explorer.

Steep and Fortuna Bay

Yesterday, Pop Pop said we were to hike only 1,000 ft. up during a 5 k walk. Oops – it was on average, a 20% grade up and down (with long stretches much steeper), with a long moraine to the shore after the descent. Today, we saw King Penguins, and this pm we’ll see a Macaroni colony on the cliffs of a small, cozy cove.

Can you guess which is the Obama Penguin?

Poems from Godthul

This am, DeDe and Pop Pop veged out. This pm, we’ll walk part of the trail Shackelton took over South Georgia to get to the whaling station and rescuers. Of course, he climbed across the whole island and over 9,000 feet – we’ll do about 5 k, and about 1,000 ft. height.
For today’s blog, here are two poems from Godthul, two days ago.

Godthul: Good Cove – 1
Vast bowl heaved from sea
Tufts of grass to craggy scree
Solitary man.

Godthul - 2
Kayaking smoothly
Midst swells, snow, seals, snaky kelp
Picture thee and me.

Here's why we were speechless!

We're speechless!

Godthul and Grytviken in South Georgia

Today was a busy day, starting in the early am with Pop Pop and yoga, then a kayak ride with both DeDe and Pop Pop in Godthul, Norwegian for “Good Cove.” South Georgia is different from Antarctica – in Antarctica there is only 2” of rainfall per year. Here in South Georgia, it rains or snows 300 days per year. We’ve been here two days, it snowed in both, and it is the dead of summer. The kayak ride was on clear water, with swells near the rocks by the shore. The elephant seal in the picture was lolling about until we must have gotten too close, when first the head came up, then the tail, and we decided that DeDe should “click” and we retreat.
Later that morning, we hiked up to the back of the bowl forming the cove with steep crags and scree all around us, where there was a mountain pond, and rushing streams.
We’re getting photog lessons, and the flower picture is an experiment by Pop Pop that seemed to work out. Bet in the winter, all those little flowers are buried in snow!

South Georgia blizzard

We’ve landed – well, not really. The day’s agenda said, “South Georgia is notorious for strong sudden winds.” We have them. Pop Pop went out for a Zodiac ride with snow coming down sideways as we drove up a fijord. It was very cold, but beautiful. This am, we were in front of a glacier when two “shooters” exploded the water. A shooter is a large chunk of ice that breaks off from the bottom of the glacier deep underwater. As the iceberg breaks water, there is a massive upheaval. On the bridge, the Captain said shooters are much more dangerous than calving – because the ice is much more compressed, and the size of the shooters is much larger.
DeDe is biking in the wellness area regularly because she is complaining that she now has more blubber than a Weddel seal (she doesn’t, but it makes a good story).

Chimping

The Orkney Islands are full of penguins and seals. We also learned a new word – chimping. That’s when traveling photographers look at the pictures they have just taken, saying, “Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh.” Today's pics are DeDe's from yesterday.

All the islands have similar topography – sharp, peaked rocks, with glacial valleys, rocky coasts, and floating or grounded icebergs offshore.

Today we’re headed to South Georgia, and literally, millions of animals. In the meantime, however, Pop Pop has spent much of the morning laying in bed, with the seas rocking, pitching, and rolling the ship. “Ooh, ooh,” with a different tone.

Photo evaluation

We are sailing today to the South Orkney Islands. The Nat Geo and Lindblad photographers will critique our pics tonight. We've submitted these two from yesterday. This am we saw a Blue (very large) whale and her baby (quite rare to see both). A research scientist on board went out and took a blubber sample from a Zodiak with a crossbow and arrow - very exciting (and cold).