At sea

Today and tomorrow we are at sea. The wind is howling outside, and we need to hold the ropes and handrails inside. We’ve had lectures/discussions today on the Falklands, whaling, videography, and later on another photography critique of our best shots, weather permitting. DeDe has been lying low today, fortunately reading a good book, not worse.

Albatross Alley

Today we visited our last stop on South Georgia, a bay called Elsehul. We’ve affectionately nick-named it Albatross Alley. As we blog, we’ve set sail for the Falkland Islands. At Elsehul, we saw, as you might expect, penguins, seals, and mostly, albatross. Some of these birds have a wing-span of 12 ft. These huge and graceful birds are especially spectacular when flying together in formation, looking like an air force squadron.

Macaroni

This pm we went to Hercules Bay, a small cove with lots of Macaroni Penguins. The swells were extreme, so we had to stay in the Zodiacs. Another highlight was seeing a pair of Sooty-Headed Albatrosses flying in tight formation. One of our favorite guides is Tom Ritchie, who, as you can see, is our National Geographic Explorer.

Steep and Fortuna Bay

Yesterday, Pop Pop said we were to hike only 1,000 ft. up during a 5 k walk. Oops – it was on average, a 20% grade up and down (with long stretches much steeper), with a long moraine to the shore after the descent. Today, we saw King Penguins, and this pm we’ll see a Macaroni colony on the cliffs of a small, cozy cove.

Can you guess which is the Obama Penguin?

Poems from Godthul

This am, DeDe and Pop Pop veged out. This pm, we’ll walk part of the trail Shackelton took over South Georgia to get to the whaling station and rescuers. Of course, he climbed across the whole island and over 9,000 feet – we’ll do about 5 k, and about 1,000 ft. height.
For today’s blog, here are two poems from Godthul, two days ago.

Godthul: Good Cove – 1
Vast bowl heaved from sea
Tufts of grass to craggy scree
Solitary man.

Godthul - 2
Kayaking smoothly
Midst swells, snow, seals, snaky kelp
Picture thee and me.

Here's why we were speechless!

We're speechless!

Godthul and Grytviken in South Georgia

Today was a busy day, starting in the early am with Pop Pop and yoga, then a kayak ride with both DeDe and Pop Pop in Godthul, Norwegian for “Good Cove.” South Georgia is different from Antarctica – in Antarctica there is only 2” of rainfall per year. Here in South Georgia, it rains or snows 300 days per year. We’ve been here two days, it snowed in both, and it is the dead of summer. The kayak ride was on clear water, with swells near the rocks by the shore. The elephant seal in the picture was lolling about until we must have gotten too close, when first the head came up, then the tail, and we decided that DeDe should “click” and we retreat.
Later that morning, we hiked up to the back of the bowl forming the cove with steep crags and scree all around us, where there was a mountain pond, and rushing streams.
We’re getting photog lessons, and the flower picture is an experiment by Pop Pop that seemed to work out. Bet in the winter, all those little flowers are buried in snow!

South Georgia blizzard

We’ve landed – well, not really. The day’s agenda said, “South Georgia is notorious for strong sudden winds.” We have them. Pop Pop went out for a Zodiac ride with snow coming down sideways as we drove up a fijord. It was very cold, but beautiful. This am, we were in front of a glacier when two “shooters” exploded the water. A shooter is a large chunk of ice that breaks off from the bottom of the glacier deep underwater. As the iceberg breaks water, there is a massive upheaval. On the bridge, the Captain said shooters are much more dangerous than calving – because the ice is much more compressed, and the size of the shooters is much larger.
DeDe is biking in the wellness area regularly because she is complaining that she now has more blubber than a Weddel seal (she doesn’t, but it makes a good story).

Chimping

The Orkney Islands are full of penguins and seals. We also learned a new word – chimping. That’s when traveling photographers look at the pictures they have just taken, saying, “Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh.” Today's pics are DeDe's from yesterday.

All the islands have similar topography – sharp, peaked rocks, with glacial valleys, rocky coasts, and floating or grounded icebergs offshore.

Today we’re headed to South Georgia, and literally, millions of animals. In the meantime, however, Pop Pop has spent much of the morning laying in bed, with the seas rocking, pitching, and rolling the ship. “Ooh, ooh,” with a different tone.

Photo evaluation

We are sailing today to the South Orkney Islands. The Nat Geo and Lindblad photographers will critique our pics tonight. We've submitted these two from yesterday. This am we saw a Blue (very large) whale and her baby (quite rare to see both). A research scientist on board went out and took a blubber sample from a Zodiak with a crossbow and arrow - very exciting (and cold).

Shackelton's rescue

We went out again today, and saw the place where the crew on the Shackelton Expedition stayed in the winter of 1916. The expedition was stranded in pack ice from January to October, 1915, when their ship was crushed by ice. They hauled and then rowed life boats across the ice flow to Elephant Island where Shackelton and four others left the party in April, 1916, and rowed 800 miles during winter in the world’s worst seas to the island of South Georgia. After several failed rescue attempts, Shackelton and a Chilean sea captain rescued the men in August, 1916. The monument in the picture was erected by the Chileans to honor the rescuing captain. Some of the Brits on board seem put out that there is no monument to Sir Shackelton.
As an added bonus this pm, the glacier calved; we saw two leopard seals, and penguins jumping four feet out of the water onto wet rocks to escape the seal.

PICTURE

We have at least one pic thanks to Mozilla Firefox.

Elephant Island

We landed at Elephant Island, a place Sir Ernest Shackelton’s men landed and stayed the winter while a few men sailed to Georgia and returned to save the rest of the crew. We saw Gentoo, Chinstrap, and Macaroni penguins, fur and elephant seals, and petrals. We also saw a Right whale, a relatively rare species. Yesterday, we could not download a picture – we’ll try again today. The landscapes are beyond description ; everything is surreal.

Yuuck! No pictures again.

R&R following a hike up a mountain

Yesterday pm we walked up a snow-covered mountain about 900 ft high. We made it but were happy to slide part way rather than walking the whole way down. Today DeDe and Pop Pop had the chance to swim in the water off of Deception Island. We chickened out and watched the dozen or so swimmers from the ship’s sunny library.

We’re now headed for Elephant Island, part of the Shetland Islands.

P.S. comment to J&J - we are not bringing any penguins back - they share a trait with geese.

We're cold!

After two days of being almost too warm in layers of polartec clothing, we went out today a bit underdressed. Oops! It is a tad cloudy, and very windy, and we were feeling this is Antarctica (as it is). DeDe's bird aura continues here as she was approached by a little cuddly gentoo penguin.

This pm, we're hoping for another kyak ride.

Kyaking and travel in Antarctica

Today we went kyaking in the am, and walking on the beach looking at seals and penguins. In the pm, we traveled through the "Gullet," a steep channel shown in the picture. The scenes are breathtaking! We hope we can remember all the spectacular sights.

On Antarctic's shore

We went to shore on the Antarctic mainland. Seals, skuas, and lots of Adele penguins greeted us (the smell was not too bad). In the picture, the background is a glacier, not an iceberg. DeDe and Pop Pop say Hi! to all. Happy Valentine's Day.

Fog!

We're in Margarite Bay in Antarctica, well within the Antartic Circle. We're hoping to get to shore to see an Adele penguin colony.

The iceberg passed us by yesterday - very imosing as we looked out the port window!

We've arrived in Antarctica!

Orcas, fin whales, humpback, icebergs, and penguins – and we’ve crossed into Antarctica! We have not yet seen land yet, because we are headed further south than originally planned, due to the calm passage, and the chance to see a larger gathering of Adele penguins.

No Drake Lake at night

After a rock and roll night, the sea has calmed significantly today. Last night, the waves were high and the boat was really dipping, rising, and swaying (we were ok, thanks to sea-sick medicine). Today we had photo lessons from the Nat Geo photographers. Tomorrow, we sight land in the pm. We’re hoping for calm waters here on in.

Summer at the end of the world

We've arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina. Mountains and water are all around. We came to the south end of the Pan American Highway, 17,848 km. from Alaska.
We are on the boat and sailing to Antarctica. Forecast: It won't be Drake's Lake.
Dede has found eight barf bags in our cabin - not a good sign!

Santiago - city of parks

Santiago has the most beautiful, and comprehensive park system we have ever seen. Everything in the city is neat, and without any litter. Just around the corner from the hotel is what DeDe and I thought is the best park we've ever been in. Everything from bird sanctuaries with parrots and cockatoos, to rose gardens and mazes, to skate-board venues and toys for every age child. It is awesome.

Dede's Post

We had an amazing ride in the Andes today with our surefooted horses and our friendly guide, Daniel. Hi to our neighbors, Max, Chloe, and Nicholas who have joined our followers. It is mid 80's and sunny in Santiago and I am in heaven!

Horses in the Andes

DeDe, Pop Pop, and friends, Nona and another Pop Pop, all went horse back riding in the Andes. We went to 7500 ft, and saw a snow-covered peak over 15,000 ft, even though it was 90 degrees where we were. The Andes look like Arizona (dry desert) mixed with the Tetons (rocks that go straight up).

Wonderful start of the trip.

Beautiful Santiago

Santiago is a bustling, beautiful city. Here's a sketch of the (some snow-covered)mountains overlooking the city. We have "free" day today to recover from the trip. So here's a geography surprise (at least to me). The west coast of South America, where we are, is two time zones east of the east coast of North America.

Yeah Toyota!

Toyota has taken lots of grief recently. But we had a different experience. We hired a car to go to the airport. They were 45 min. late, getting stuck in the snow somewhere. So DeDe said, "Get the Toyota ready." Our driver came in a Lincoln Towncar. He could not get out of our driveway. So we drove our car to the airport (no problem getting out of the driveway), and the driver took the Toyota home. Whew.

We're off

DeDe and Pop Pop did a "duh" last night. That's what our grandchildren say when we make mistakes. We watched a movie called Whiteout - a murder mystery set in Antarctica. That was probably not our best introduction to Antarctica.

I think our trip won't be as stressful.

As they say in France, "Bon voyage!"

Last of the day

So... one last tidbit. We topped out at 22 inches of snow, lots and lots of the white stuff.

Twenty two inches
It's tough to get through it all
Cold, silent beauty.

Big snow - 2!

Is DeDe nervous? Picture her vacuuming the cabinet in the basement that holds the fuse box, and you get idea that she might be twitchy.

On the back porch we have a table and chairs - see how they are covered with snow. Wow!

Big snow!

Tomorrow's the day!

But first, we need to dig out. Our back porch has 18 inches of snow at 8 am, and it is snowing hard. DeDe says, "Why are we paying to go to Antarctica? It came to us! Those geese look like penguins to me."

Pop Pop went and cleared a trail to the mini ponies barn, and the snow is up to their bellies. They are happy, however, with their oats and hay. Back inside, I feel good, too, but my toes are cold from where the snow got down my boots.

We may do two posts today, after we see the full impact of the snowfall. More to come.

Snow!

Two days and counting.

Thank goodness we were not leaving tomorrow - all the plane flights out of Philadelphia have been cancelled, due to a blizzard. We're scheduled to head out Sunday afternoon. Hopefully the runways will be clear by then. First stop, Miami, then a long jaunt to Santiago, Chile.

This snowfall is expected to be wet and heavy, and over a foot deep, with lots of wind and drifts. So there will likely be down branches and trees and electrical outages.

On January 14th Pop Pop posted a picture of our ponies in an earlier deep snow - bet that's what it will look like tomorrow, too.

Chopping ice

Only four days to go! We are definately getting excited.

We had an ice experience recently. We live near two streams, ponds, and wetlands. Because the ground water is so high, we had a spring develop in our front yeard, and half of our driveway is thick with ice. That is a bit of a problem, but even worse, the water started to seep up onto the front walk and ice it over. So ... Pop Pop goes out with a big metal rod (about six feet long) to break up the ice. After about 45 minutes of chopping ice, I came in for lunch. In an hour, I could barely move my right elbow.
Yesterday, I had a paddle match, and needed instant relief. Ice (packed around the elbow), excercise, and Advil came to the rescue. Thankfully, the combination worked. So ice was really helpful in solving the problem that ice caused.

Good news, bad news

Only five more days to lift-off!

Today's news is about two short trips yesterday.

Good news
For pre-school kids who can walk, there may be nothing more exciting than the Please Touch Museum in Fairmount Park, Philadelphia (off of Belmont Ave.). DeDe went there yesterday with Susie, Jess and Madison - they had a blast.

Bad news
Pop Pop went into the city for lunch yesterday, and parked in Liberty Place at 16th and Market, right in center city. They have a shopping mall on the first two floors of the building. Nine stores are empty - nothing, nada, zip. It was a bit spooky. Hopefully, things will start to turn around soon.

Pop Pop in Wonderland

It's getting exciting! Only six more days until we start our trip. Pop Pop has started a new book to read on the trip, Alice in Wonderland. The book is full of wonderous imaginations and adventures. I think our trip will be just like the book, with things we can't even imagine.

For example, we think of ice as clear, white, or blue. But we've been told that in Antarctica, ice comes in all colors and designs. Cool! We'll see if that is true, or just a Wonderland story.